Hey, just got a BladeGC controller to play GB/C and GBA games but it doesn't seem to work with the USB adapter. I can get it working by passing it through my Brook Wingman adapter, but I'd rather not need it if I can get it working with just the USB dongle. Anyone have any luck with it?

So I have my mister setup in an arcade cabinet, 2 joysticks, 6 player buttons and 1 start, 1 coin each.

These are connected to an IPAC2, all good so far.

However, within ROMS you have an option to remap controls, for Street fighter for example.

In these settings I can remap the buttons for Joystick 1 and then the button setup ends and I can't remap for player 2.

So how do I remap inputs for player 2?

Bonus question if you know, how do I skip a button assignment?

Like the title says. What does the symbols * . ~ stands for while loading files with the update all script?

When I update. Sometimes it just seem stuck on a lot of **** with a . sometimes braking the pattern. What does it mean? An sometimes I also get the ~ a few times. Bad connection or anything else?

Where (in the documentation?) can I read more about this behaviour and/or about the symbol definitions?

So I have a MASE kit arriving from Stone Age gamer that will allow me to hookup any sata 2.5” drive to my MisterAddons aluminum case

I need a lot of space as I plan on keeping full sets of many cd based systems like sega cd, PCEngine cd, psone, Saturn, etc

I know the bottleneck is usb 2.0 correct? So there should be no conceivable benefit to an SSD over traditional 2.5 inch spinning disc?

I do worry about the drive going to sleep and causing slowdown when it has to mechanically spin back up vs an SSD

anyone who was in the same boat as me have any advice on which direction to go with?

Thanks!

I was looking at a list of core default resolutions found here:

https://mister-devel.github.io/MkDocs_MiSTer/advanced/nativeres/

I haven't bought a MiSTer yet and was planning using mostly a CRT TV, but I see a lot of arcade and many computer cores go up to 31 kHz and beyond. If I understand it correctly, if the horizontal frequency is above 15 kHz then it won't display on a CRT TV, as well as the same for PC CRT if above 31 kHz, correct?

I don't mind doing some tinkering and under the hood work from time to to time, but if I have to switch displays when going from one core to the next with different horizontal frequencies that seems like a hassle. In addition to the above questions, is there anything else I'm missing here? Thanks.

I was trying to rebind the PSX buttons to turn off the savestate and additional buttons, but I couldn't figure out how. I wanted to skip assignment of those later buttons. I see there looks like a way I could do it if I had a keyboard plugged in, but is there a way to skip assignment just via controller. Thanks!

Ok so I'm using a USB OTG adapter and a sabrent powered USB hub on my mister. Both of the power adapters (one for the hub, one for the board) are connected to a surge protector. Sometimes it will work just fine, but when I need to turn it off and on with the surge protector switch, the USB hub stops working. If I leave the whole setup alone for maybe 5 to 10 minutes, come back, and then try to turn it on, it all magically works again, and when it works, it works without issue. Even when I reboot from the software rather than just turning the power off it still works fine. Can somebody explain this really peculiar behavior? Should I try another OTG cable?

I just have my MiSTer in a sandwich top+bottom retrofrog two plate 'case', so it's pretty open. When I turn on my CRT next to the MiSTer, the MiSTer reboots. I live in a pretty low humidity place, lots of static in the winter, so I'm worried about zapping it in general.

What's a good enclosure for protecting my MiSTer from both bodily zaps from my hands and from the CRT static rebooting it?

I feel like the 500 euro one would be the simplest, but that's kinda expensive for me. Would it be reasonable to order the 159 euro kit, along with the other part(s) needed separately. I feel relatively confident in my ability to assemble things, not so confident in my ability to order the correct parts.

Title. I'd like to jump on one as soon as it becomes available for MSRP. And are Digikey lead times reliable?